Fred Beckey (born Friedrich Wolfgang Beckey, 14 January 1923) is an American mountaineer, who has made hundreds of first ascents, more than any other North American climber. Events 1129 - Formal approval of the Order of the Templar at the Council of Troyes. Year 1923 ( MCMXXIII) was a Common year starting on Monday (link will display the full calendar of the Gregorian calendar. “Alpinist” redirects here See also Alpinist (magazine Mountaineering is the Sport, Hobby or Profession of In Climbing, a first ascent (FA is the first modern recorded climb to reach the top of a Mountain, or the first to follow a particular Climbing route [1]
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Biography
"Beckey," as he is known to his climbing companions, was born in Düsseldorf, Germany, and his family emigrated to the United States when he was three, ending up in Seattle, Washington. Düsseldorf (ˈdʏsəldɔɐf is the capital city of the German state of North Rhine-Westphalia. Germany, officially the Federal Republic of Germany ( ˈbʊndəsʁepuˌbliːk ˈdɔʏtʃlant is a Country in Central Europe. He started climbing in the Cascades as a teenager, learning the basic concepts from The Mountaineers but quickly going on to harder climbs. The Mountaineers is an outdoor recreation and awareness group based in Seattle, Washington and is the third largest group of its kind in the country
He attended the University of Washington and received a degree in business administration. See Washington (disambiguation for other uses The University of Washington, founded in 1861, is a public research University He worked as a delivery truck driver, which left him time for climbing.
Unlike Jim Whittaker, a fellow Seattleite and the first American to reach the top of Mount Everest in 1963, Beckey shied away from the large team efforts, preferring smaller alpine-style undertakings. This article is about the mountaineer For the Politician, see Jim Whitaker. Mount Everest, also called Sagarmatha (सगरमाथा meaning Head of the Sky) or Chomolungma, Qomolangma or Zhumulangma (in Beckey seemed a likely choice as a member for the 1963 Everest trip, but he was not chosen. (He had been to Everest in 1955 with the International Himalayan Expedition). [2]
Guidebook author
In the late 1940s, he asked the Mountaineers of Seattle to publish his first climbing guidebook for the local peaks. They turned him down, and the American Alpine Club agreed to print a few thousand copies for a flat fee. The American Alpine Club, or AAC, was founded in 1902 by Charles Ernest Fay, and is the leading national organization in the United States devoted to Mountaineering
In-between climbs, he wrote several books, most significantly the Cascade Alpine Guide, the 3-volume definitive description of the mountains from the Columbia River to the Canadian border (and the North Cascades, which extend into Canada), now in its third revision, published by The Mountaineers. The Cascade Alpine Guides are a series of three climbing guides written by Fred Beckey, longtime explorer and climber of the Cascade Mountains in Washington The Columbia River (known as The Canada – United States border is the international Border between Canada and the United States. The North Cascades are a section of the Cascade Range of western North America.
In 2003, his 563-page book on the history of the region "Range of Glaciers," was published by the Oregon Historical Society Press. According to a reviewer, he did much of the research for the volume in Washington, D.C., at the Library of Congress and the National Archives, scouring files of the Defense Department, State Department, U.S. Geological Survey and other agencies. Washington DC ( formally the District of Columbia and commonly referred to as Washington, the District, or simply D The Library of Congress is the De facto National library of the United States and the research arm of the United States Congress The United States Geological Survey ( USGS) is a scientific agency of the United States government. Beckey also perused the Canadian archives in Ottawa; Hudson's Bay Co. archives in Winnipeg; British Columbia archives in Victoria; records of the Northwest Boundary Survey at Yale University; and records of the Northern Pacific and Great Northern railroads in Minneapolis. Country to "Dominion of Canada" or "Canadian Federation" or anything else please read the Talk Page Ottawa (ˈɒtəwə or sometimes /ˈɒtəwɑː/ is the Capital of Canada and the country's fourth largest municipality. Winnipeg (ˈwɪnɨpɛg is the capital and largest city in the Canadian province of Manitoba, and 7th largest municipality in Canada with a population British Columbia (ˌbrɪtɨʃ kəˈlʌmbiə ( BC) ( (la Colombie-Britannique C Victoria (vɪkˈtɔɹiə is the capital city of British Columbia.
As of 2008, he continues to climb all over the world. 2008 ( MMVIII) is the current year in accordance with the Gregorian calendar, a Leap year that started on Tuesday of the Common
Mt. Beckey, named for Fred Beckey, is located in the Alaskan Range at North 62 degrees, 52 minutes, West 152 degrees, 15 minutes.
First ascents
Some of his first ascents:
- Forbidden Peak, Cascade Range - 1940, with brother Helmy and Lloyd Anderson
- Devils Thumb, Alaska - 1946[3]
- Mount Hood's Yocum Ridge
- North Peak, Liberty Bell - 1947
- North Buttress, Mount Shuksan - 1947
- Mount Hunter (Alaska) - 1954, with Heinrich Harrer and Henry Meybohm
- Mount Deborah - 1954, with Heinrich Harrer and Henry Meybohm
- North Face of Mount Edith Cavell, Canada - 1961, with Yvon Chouinard[3]
- Beckey-Chouinard Route of South Howser Tower, Bugaboos, Canada 1961, with Yvon Chouinard[3]
- Northeast Buttress of Mount Slesse, British Columbia, Canada 1963
- Mount Beckey, Cathedral Mountains, Alaska, USA - 1996, with John Middendorf and Calvin Hebert
Other notable feats:
- Second ascent Mount Waddington, British Columbia - 1942
- Triple ascent of Mount McKinley, Mount Deborah, and Mount Hunter - 1954
Quotation
"Fred Beckey has achieved enduring recognition as the most imaginative, persistent, and thorough explorer and mountain investigator of the Cascade Range Wilderness. Devils Thumb is a Mountain in the Stikine Icecap region of the Alaska - British Columbia border near Petersburg. Alaska ( Аляска Alyaska) is a state in the United States of America, in the northwest of the North American continent Mount Shuksan is a glaciated peak in the North Cascades National Park of the United States. Mount Hunter, or Begguya, is a Mountain in Denali National Park in Alaska. Heinrich Harrer ( July 6, 1912 – January 7, 2006) was an Austrian mountaineer sportsman Geographer Mount Deborah is one of the major peaks of the eastern Alaska Range. Heinrich Harrer ( July 6, 1912 – January 7, 2006) was an Austrian mountaineer sportsman Geographer Mount Edith Cavell is a Mountain located in the Athabasca River and Astoria River valleys of Jasper National Park, Canada. Country to "Dominion of Canada" or "Canadian Federation" or anything else please read the Talk Page Yvon Chouinard (born 1938 in Maine) is a rock climber environmentalist and outdoor industry businessman noted for his contributions to climbing climbing equipment and Country to "Dominion of Canada" or "Canadian Federation" or anything else please read the Talk Page Year 1961 ( MCMLXI) was a Common year starting on Sunday (link will display full calendar of the Gregorian calendar. Yvon Chouinard (born 1938 in Maine) is a rock climber environmentalist and outdoor industry businessman noted for his contributions to climbing climbing equipment and Slesse Mountain, usually referred to as Mount Slesse, is a Mountain just north of the US - Canada border in the North Cascades British Columbia (ˌbrɪtɨʃ kəˈlʌmbiə ( BC) ( (la Colombie-Britannique C Country to "Dominion of Canada" or "Canadian Federation" or anything else please read the Talk Page Year 1963 ( MCMLXIII) was a Common year starting on Tuesday (link will display full calendar of the Gregorian calendar. Mount Waddington, once known as Mystery Mountain, is the highest peak in the Coast Mountains of British Columbia, Canada. British Columbia (ˌbrɪtɨʃ kəˈlʌmbiə ( BC) ( (la Colombie-Britannique C "Denali" redirects here For other meanings see Denali (disambiguation. Mount Deborah is one of the major peaks of the eastern Alaska Range. Mount Hunter, or Begguya, is a Mountain in Denali National Park in Alaska. He was noted as "one of America's most colorful and eccentric mountaineers," and is unofficially recognized as the all-time world-record holder for the number of first ascents credited to one man. In addition to being the author of the Cascade Alpine Guide series, Beckey is also the author of Mountains of North America, The Range of Glaciers: Exploration and Survey of the North Cascades, and a personal narrative, Challenge of the North Cascades. "
--Mountaineers Books
Books
- Range of Glaciers: The Exploration and Survey of the Northern Cascade Range (Oregon Historical Society, 2003 ISBN 0-87595-243-7)
- Cascade Alpine Guide (3 vols. The Cascade Alpine Guides are a series of three climbing guides written by Fred Beckey, longtime explorer and climber of the Cascade Mountains in Washington ) (Mountaineers Books, 1973-2003)
- Columbia River to Stevens Pass (1973, 3rd ed. 2000, ISBN 0-89886-577-8)
- Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass (1973, 3rd ed. 2003, ISBN 0-89886-152-7)
- Rainy Pass to Fraser River (1981, 2nd ed. 1995, ISBN 0-89886-423-2)
- Challenge of the North Cascades (1969, 2nd ed. 1996, ISBN 0-89886-479-8)
- Mount McKinley: Icy Crown of North America (Mountaineers Books 1993, paper 1999, ISBN 0-89886-646-4)
- The Bugaboos: An Alpine History (1987)
- Mountains of North America (1986)
- Mountains of North America (Sierra Club, 1982)
- Darrington and Index Rock Climbing Guide (Mountaineers Books, 1976)
- Guide to Leavenworth rock-climbing areas (Mountaineers Books, 1965)
- Climber's Guide to the Cascade and Olympic Mountains of Washington (American Alpine Club, 1949, revised edition 1953)
Gallery
 Fred Beckey Alaska 2005 |  Fred Beckey on Louise Falls in 2006 |
References
- ^ Modie, Neil. Mission statement To explore enjoy and protect the wild places of the earth To practice and promote the responsible use of the earth's ecosystems and resources To educate and "Icon to some, legendary climber Beckey still obscure to many", Seattle Post-Intelligencer, Seattle PI, March 8, 2003. Retrieved on 2006-01-07. Year 2006 ( MMVI) was a Common year starting on Sunday of the Gregorian calendar. Events 1325 - Alfonso IV becomes King of Portugal. 1558 - France takes Calais, the last continental (English)
- ^ "Solu Khumbu Climbs: First Ascents After Lhotse" . American Alpine Journal, 1956 10 (2): 7.
- ^ a b c Child, Greg (October 2000). Rock Legends. Outside Magazine. Retrieved on 10/04/2006.
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