In clothing, a collar is the part of a shirt, dress, coat or blouse that fastens around or frames the neck. Clothing (also called clothes, accoutrements, accouterments, or habiliments) protects the Human body from extreme Weather A shirt is a cloth garment for the upper body Originally an item of underwear worn exclusively by men it has become in American English a catch-all term for A dress (also frock, gown) is a garment consisting of a Skirt with an attached Bodice or with a matching bodice giving the effect of a one-piece A coat is a long garment worn by both men and women for warmth or Fashion. The word blouse most commonly refers to a woman's Shirt, although the term is also used for some men's military uniform jackets The neck is the part of the Body on many limbed Vertebrates that distinguishes the head from the Torso or trunk A collar may also be a separate or detachable accessory worn around the neck.
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Origins
The Oxford English Dictionary traces collar in its modern meaning to c. The Oxford English Dictionary ( OED) published by the Oxford University Press (OUP is a comprehensive Dictionary of the English 1300. Today's shirt collars descend from the ruffle created by the drawstring at the neck of the medieval chemise, through the Elizabethan ruff and its successors, the whisk collar and falling band. In Sewing and Dressmaking, a ruffle, frill, or furbelow is a strip of fabric, Lace or Ribbon tightly gathered The neck is the part of the Body on many limbed Vertebrates that distinguishes the head from the Torso or trunk The term chemise can refer to the classic smock or shift, or else can refer to certain modern types of women's undergarments and dresses Romance and reality The Victorian era and the early twentieth century idealised the Elizabethan era A ruff is an item of Clothing worn in Western Europe from the mid- Sixteenth century to the mid- Seventeenth century. Bands are a form of formal neckwear worn by some Clergy and Lawyers, and with some forms of Academic dress.
Separate collars have existed alongside attached collars since the mid-16th century, usually to allow starching and other fine finishing. Starch, CAS # 9005-25-8 Chemical formula (C6H10O5n is a Polysaccharide
Terminology
- Band - a strip of fabric that fastens around the neck, perpendicular to the body of the garment, to which a collar proper may be attached. In Geometry, two lines or planes (or a line and a plane are considered perpendicular (or orthogonal) to each other if they form congruent
- Collar stiffeners, bones or stays - strips of metal, horn, mother of pearl, or plastic, rounded at one end and pointed at the other, inserted into a man's shirt collar to stiffen it and prevent the points from curling up; usually inserted into the underside of the collar through small slits but sometimes permanently sewn in place. Collar stays (sometimes known as collar bones or tabs and in the UK, collar stiffeners are Shirt accessories The M acro E xpansion T emplate A ttribute L anguage complements TAL, providing macros which allow the reuse of code across A horn is a pointed projection of the Skin on the head of various Mammals consisting of a covering of horn ( Keratin and other Proteins Nacre, also known as mother of pearl, is an organic-inorganic Composite material produced by some Mollusks as an inner shell layer Plastic is the general common term for a wide range of synthetic or semisynthetic organic solid materials suitable for the manufacture of industrial products
- Points - the corners of a collar; in a buttoned-down collar, the points are fitted with buttonholes that attach to small buttons on the body of the shirt to hold the collar neatly in place. Buttonholes are holes in fabric that are paired with functional Buttons (as opposed to decorative buttons that serve as Fasteners Buttonholes may be either made by
- Spread - the distance between the points of a shirt collar.
- Stand - the band on a coat or shirt collar that supports the collar itself.
Types of collars
Collars can be categorized as:
- Standing or stand-up, fitting up around the neck and not lying on the shoulders.
- Turnover, standing around the neck and then folded or rolled over.
- Flat or falling, lying flat on the shoulders.
Collars may also be stiffened, traditionally with starch; modern wash-and-wear shirt collars may be stiffened with interfacing. Starch, CAS # 9005-25-8 Chemical formula (C6H10O5n is a Polysaccharide Interfacing is a Textile used on the unseen or "wrong" side of Fabrics to make an area of a garment more rigid Shirt collars which are not stiffened are described as soft.
The shape of collars is also controlled by the shape of the neckline to which they are attached. The neckline is the top edge of a garment that surrounds the neck Most collars are fitted to a jewel neck, a neckline sitting at the base of the neck all around; if the garment opens down the front, the top edges may be folded back to form lapels and a V-shaped opening, and the cut of the collar will be adjusted accordingly. Cut in Clothing, Sewing and Tailoring is the style or shape of a garment as opposed to its fabric or trimmings.
Collar styles
Names for specific styles of collars vary with the vagaries of fashion. Fashion refers to styles of dress (but can also include cuisine literature art architecture and general comportment that are popular in a culture at any given time In the 1930s and 1940s, especially, historical styles were adapted by fashion designers; thus the Victorian bertha collar, a cape-like collar fitted to a low scooping neckline, was adapted in the 1940s but generally attached to a V-neckline. Fashion design is the Applied art dedicated to Clothing and lifestyle Accessories created within the cultural and social influences of a specific time The term " Victorian Fashion " refers to Fashion in Clothing in the Victorian era, or the reign of Queen Victoria (1837&ndash1901
Some specific styles of collars include:
- Ascot collar or stock collar, a very tall standing collar with the points turned up over the chin, to be worn with a cravat. The cravat is a neckband the forerunner of the modern tailored Necktie and Bow tie.
- Albany collar, a standard turndown cutaway collar, worn predominantly in early C20th.
- Band collar, a collar with a small standing band, usually buttoned, in the style worn with detachable collars. A Band Collar is a standing band-shaped collar that encircles the Neck without a full turndown or a collar "cape"
- Barrymore collar, a turnover shirt collar with long points, as worn by the actor John Barrymore. John Sidney Blyth Barrymore ( February 15 1882 – May 29 1942) was an American Actor, frequently called the greatest The style reappeared in the 1970s; particularly during that time it was often known as a "tapered collar", and could accompany fashionable wide ties on dress shirts.
- Bertha collar, a wide, flat, round collar, often of lace or sheer fabric, worn with a low neckline in the Victorian era and resurrected in the 1940s.
- Buster Brown collar, a wide, flat, round collar, sometimes with a ruffle, usually worn with a floppy bow tie, characteristic of boys' shirts from c. 1880-1920.
- Butterfly collar, same as wing collar but with rounded tips.
- Button-down collar, a collar with buttonholes on the points to fasten them to the body of the shirt.
- Cadet collar, same as mandarin collar.
- Chinese collar, same as mandarin collar.
- Cape collar, a collar fashioned like a cape and hanging over the shoulders. A cape is a type of Clothing, and can be used to describe any sleeveless outer garment such as a Poncho, but usually it is a long garment that covers only the back
- Chelsea collar, a woman's collar for a low V-neckline, with a stand and long points, popular in the 1960s and 1970s.
- Clerical collar, band collar worn as part of clerical clothing
- Convertible collar, a collar designed to be worn with the neck button either fastened or unfastened. A clerical collar is a piece of Clerical clothing. It is a Detachable collar that buttons onto a Clergy shirt or rabbat (vest being fastened by two metal Clerical clothing is non- liturgical Clothing worn exclusively by Clergy.
- Cossack collar a high standing collar opening to one side and frequently trimmed with embroidery; popular under the influence of the 1965 film Doctor Zhivago. Embroidery is the Art or Handicraft of decorating fabric or other Materials with designs stitched in strands of thread or Doctor Zhivago ( Доктор Живаго) is a 1965 drama - romance - War film directed by David Lean and loosely
- Detachable collar or false-collar, a collar made as a separate accessory to be worn with a band-collared shirt.
- Double Round Collar, a turn down collar with rounded tips.
- Eton collar, a wide stiff buttoned collar forming part of the uniform of Eton College starting in the late 19th century. Eton College, or just Eton, is a world-famous British Independent school for boys founded in 1440 by King Henry VI.
- Falling band, a collar with rectanglar points falling over the chest, worn in the 17th century and remaining part of Anglican clerical clothing into the 19th century. Anglicanism is a tradition of Christian faith Churches in this tradition either have historical connections to the Church of England or have similar beliefs Clerical clothing is non- liturgical Clothing worn exclusively by Clergy.
- Fichu collar, a collar styled like an 18th century fichu, a large neckerchief folded into a triangular shape and worn with the point in the back and the front corners tied over the breast. A fichu is a large square Kerchief worn by women in the 18th century to fill in the low neckline of a Bodice. A neckerchief is a type of Neckwear associated with Scouts and Sailors It consists of a triangular piece of cloth or a rectanglular piece folded into a
- Gladstone collar, a standing collar with the points pressed to stick out horizontally at the side-fronts, worn with a scarf or ascot; popularized by the British Prime Minister William Ewart Gladstone. In Astronomy, Geography, Geometry and related sciences and contexts a plane is said to be horizontal at a given point if it is locally Uses and types In cold climates a thick Knitted scarf often of Wool, is tied around the Neck to keep warm
- Grafton collar, a high wing collar of around 2 1/4".
- Grandad collar, same as band collar.
- Imperial collar, a stiff standing collar for men's formal wear; sometimes referred to as a poke collar
- Jabot collar, a standing collar with a pleated, ruffled, or lace-trimmed frill down the front. A pleat (older plait) is a type of Fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place In Sewing and Dressmaking, a ruffle, frill, or furbelow is a strip of fabric, Lace or Ribbon tightly gathered
- Johnny collar, a women's style with an open, short V-neck and a flat, often knit collar.
- Lacoste collar, the un-starched, flat, protruding collar of a tennis shirt, invented by René Lacoste. A tennis shirt, now commonly called a polo shirt and also known as a golf shirt, is a T-shaped Shirt with a collar typically two or three buttons down Jean René Lacoste ( July 2, 1904 - October 12, 1996) was a famous French Tennis player and businessman nicknamed "the
- Mandarin collar, a small standing collar, open at the front, based on traditional Manchu or Mongol-influenced Asian garments. A mandarin collar is a short unfolded stand-up collar style on a shirt or jacket
- Man-tailored collar, a woman's shirt collar made like a man's shirt collar with a stand and stiffened or buttoned-down points.
- Mao collar, a short, almost straight standing collar folded over, with the points extending only to the base of the band, characteristic of the Mao suit. The modern Chinese tunic suit is a style of male Attire known in China as the Chungshan suit or Zhongshan suit ( (after Sun Zhongshan
- Medici collar, a flared, fan-shaped collar with a V-opening at the front popular in the 1540s and 1550s, after similar styles seen in portraits of Catherine de' Medici. Catherine de' Medici (April 13 1519 &ndash January 5 1589 was born in Florence, Italy as Caterina Maria Romula di Lorenzo de' Medici.
- Middy collar, a sailor collar (from midshipman), popular for women's and children's clothing in the early 20th century
- Mock or mockneck, a knitted collar similar to a turtleneck but without a turnover
- Nehru collar, a small standing collar, meeting at the front, based on traditional Indian garments, popular in the 1960s with the Nehru jacket. For the fish called midshipman see Midshipman fish. The rank of midshipman is one of the oldest ranks still in existence India, officially the Republic of India (भारत गणराज्य inc-Latn Bhārat Gaṇarājya; see also other Indian languages) is a country The Nehru jacket is a hip-length tailored coat for men or women with a stand-up or "mandarin" collar and modeled on the South Asian Achkan or Sherwani
- Peter Pan collar, a small, flat, round-cornered collar without a stand, popular for women's and children's clothing in the mid-20th century. Peter Pan collars
- Picadilly collar, a wing collar made of plastic or celloid.
- Pierrot collar, a round, flat, limp collar based on the costume worn by the Commedia dell'Arte character Pierrot. Commedia dell'Arte ( Italian: "the comedy of artists" is a form of Improvisational theatre that began in Italy in the 16th century WatteauPierrotjpg|thumb|200px|Watteau's sad Commedia dell'arte player of Pierrot ca 1718–19 traditionally identified as "Gilles" ( Louvre)]]
- Poet collar, a soft shirt collar, often with long points, worn by Romantic poets such as Lord Byron, or a 1970s style reminiscent of this. Romanticism largely began as a reaction against the prevailing Enlightenment ideals of the day
- Poke collar, a stiff standing collar for men's formal wear; also referred to as an imperial collar
- Prince of Wales collar, a dress-shirt collar style inspired by Edward VIII when he was Prince of Wales. A cutaway collar, like a Windsor collar, but not as wide-set, less stiff, and with longer points.
- Revere collar, flat V-shaped collar often found on blouses.
- Rolled collar, any collar that is softly rolled where it folds down from the stand (as opposed to a collar with a pressed crease at the fold).
- Round collar, any collar with rounded points.
- Ruff collar a high standing pleated collar popular in the renaissance period made of starched linen or lace, or a similar fashion popular late seventeenth century and again in the early nineteenth century. A ruff is an item of Clothing worn in Western Europe from the mid- Sixteenth century to the mid- Seventeenth century.
- Sailor collar, a collar with a deep V-neck in front, no stand, and a square back, based on traditional sailor's uniforms
- Shawl collar, a round collar for a V-neckline that is extended to form lapels, often used on cardigan sweaters, dinner jackets and women's blouses. A uniform is a set of standard Clothing worn by members of an organization while participating in that organization's activity A cardigan is a type of Sweater / Jumper that ties Buttons or zips down the front by contrast a pullover does not
- Spread collar, a shirt collar with a wide spread between the points, which can accommodate a bulky necktie knot. The necktie (or tie) is a long piece of cloth worn around the neck resting under the shirt collar and knotted at the throat KNOT (1450 AM) is a commercial Classic Country music Radio station in Prescott Arizona, broadcasting to the Flagstaff - Prescott
- Swiecicki Collar (U.S.), a popular Polish collar worn by bankers. The United States of America —commonly referred to as the
- Tab collar, a shirt collar with a small tab that fastens the points together underneath the knot of the necktie.
- Upturned collar, an otherwise flat, protruding collar of either a shirt (especially a tennis shirt), jacket, or coat that has been turned upward, either for sport use, warmth, or as either a "fashion signal" or a perceived status symbol. An upturned collar is an otherwise flat protruding collar of either a Shirt, Jacket, or coat that has been turned upward A tennis shirt, now commonly called a polo shirt and also known as a golf shirt, is a T-shaped Shirt with a collar typically two or three buttons down A status symbol is a visible external denotation of one's social position and indicator of status.
- Van Dyke or vandyke collar, a large collar with deep points standing high on the neck and falling onto the shoulders, usually trimmed with lace or reticella, worn in the second quarter of the 17th century, as seen in portraits by Anthony Van Dyck. Reticella (also reticello or in French point coupé or point couppe) is a Needle lace dating from the 15th century and remaining popular
- Windsor collar, for a cutaway collar: a dress-shirt collar that is slightly stiff, with a wide spread (space between the points) to accommodate a Windsor knot tie, popularized in the 1930s; for a wing collar, a standard wing collar.
- Wing collar (or, incorrectly, wingtip collar), a small standing collar with the points pressed to stick out horizontally, resembling "wings", worn with men's evening dress (white tie or black tie); a descendant of Gladstone collar. White tie ( evening dress, full evening dress in the UK is the most formal evening Dress code. Black tie is a dress code for semi-formal evening events and is worn to many types of social functions Used by barristers in the UK and Canada. A barrister is a Lawyer found in many Common law Jurisdictions that employ a split profession (as opposed to a Fused profession) in relation The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland, commonly known as the United Kingdom, the UK or Britain,is a Sovereign state located Country to "Dominion of Canada" or "Canadian Federation" or anything else please read the Talk Page
- Wing or whisk, a stiffened half-circle collar with a tall stand, worn in the early 17th century.
Extended meanings
From the contrast between the starched white shirt collars worn by businessmen in the early 20th century and the blue chambray workshirts worn by laborers comes the use of collar colors in job designation, the "workforce colorwheel". Examples are blue-collar, pink-collar and white-collar. A pink-collar worker works in a job that is considered traditionally female (these traditions generally harking back to the first half of the twentieth century White-collar worker refers to a salaried professional or an educated Worker who performs semi-professional office administrative and sales coordination tasks as opposed to
Modern cultural significance
The act of "popping one's collar" is turning the collar up from its resting position so it stands on its own around the neck. An upturned collar is an otherwise flat protruding collar of either a Shirt, Jacket, or coat that has been turned upward It is a sign of self-aggrandizement in flirtation. The act is especially cherished in the popular American rock culture of the 1970s and is finding a revival in modern hip hop.
See also
- Chemise
- Dress shirt
- Neckline
- Necktie
- Polo neck
- Ruff
- Shirt
- Top button
- Upturned collar
- Collar (disambiguation)
- Collar (BDSM)
References
- Oxford English Dictionary
- Picken, Mary Brooks: The Fashion Dictionary, Funk and Wagnalls, 1957. The term chemise can refer to the classic smock or shift, or else can refer to certain modern types of women's undergarments and dresses In American English, a dress shirt is a predominantly men's Shirt with a collar, a full-length opening at the front from the collar to the hem and full The neckline is the top edge of a garment that surrounds the neck The necktie (or tie) is a long piece of cloth worn around the neck resting under the shirt collar and knotted at the throat A polo neck ( UK) or turtle neck ( US) or skivvy ( Australia) is a garment&mdashusually a sweater&mdashwith a close-fitting round A ruff is an item of Clothing worn in Western Europe from the mid- Sixteenth century to the mid- Seventeenth century. A shirt is a cloth garment for the upper body Originally an item of underwear worn exclusively by men it has become in American English a catch-all term for The top button of a Shirt or Blouse, also sometimes referred to as the collar button, holds the collar of the shirt together An upturned collar is an otherwise flat protruding collar of either a Shirt, Jacket, or coat that has been turned upward In a BDSM context a collar is a device of any material placed around the neck The Oxford English Dictionary ( OED) published by the Oxford University Press (OUP is a comprehensive Dictionary of the English (1973 edition ISBN 0-308-10052-2)
External links
- Stylopedia -- an online dictionary of fashion details
- ApparelSeach glossary of textile and apparel terms
- Collar Styles - Image gallery of various collar styles
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